Cremation was an honour reserved only for lamas and senior monks; in the past, commoners were usually tossed in the river. Since the introduction of Buddhism to the region in the 800s, however, sky burials have become the most common way to dispose of the dead. They're also among the most intriguing social practices to emerge from a culture that still remains full of mystery to most outsiders.
When a Tibetan dies, the corpse is kept for 24 hours in a sitting position while a lama recites prayers from the Tibetan Book of the Dead. These prayers speed the soul through the 49 levels of Bardo - the state between death and rebirth. Three days after death the body is blessed, folded and carried on the back of a close friend to the dürtro, or burial site.
The charnel ground is usually a large fenced meadow where prayer flags hang and the scent of smoldering juniper purifies the air. Here, special body breakers known as rogyapas cut off the deceased's hair, chop up the body with knives and hatchets and pound the bones, mixing them with flour. Vultures - previously kept at bay by men waving sticks - then complete the job of disposal, often helped by wild dogs.
Although the rogyapas have a special place in Tibetan society, their work is not hampered by ceremony or squeamishness. Their job is a matter-of-fact one, and they will talk and laugh as they tend to their necessary task.
Despite their apparent brutality, sky burials are not a time for sadness or mourning. The soul is considered to have already left the body: the time is used by friends and family for reflection on the impermanence of life. Tibetans are encouraged to witness these rituals and to confront death openly. It might not be to everyone's tastes, but Tibetans could never be accused of denying death. This open mindset carries over into everyday life, where objects as common as trumpets and bowls are often made from human bone. |
